Saturday, May 12, 2012

Slight Showers and Being a Tourist 5/7/12

I've just boarded a bus to Pushkar and the rain has begun.  I missed it by two minutes, though the clouds have hung low since yesterday evening.  The parched land I saw yesterday surrounding Jaipur desperately needs it.  I took a Tuc-Tuc (motorcycle rickshaw) all over Jaipur yesterday, took a bunch of photos (don't worry, Dad), and some video  I began at the City Palace--a huge complex of buildings and gardens in Old City (or Pink City, as all the building were once painted pink to welcome Prince Albert).  The architecture is a mix of Mughal and Rajasthani, built up over the centuries.  Inside I took an audio tour, wandering through the intricate buildings to see old wedding gowns, polo outfits, and a wide array of weaponry.  Strangely ,the weapons impressed me the most.  Daggers, swords, armor, shields, and guns were displayed with an absurd amount of ivory, gold and jeweled handles within what was previously an old ladies' dance hall.  In contrast with the violence of the weapons, the ceilings were intricately painted with gold details supporting large chandeliers.  Jantar Mantar was just across the street, and consisted of a large courtyard filled with large sculptures used to measure the time within two seconds, and the positions of the stars.  It felt like a huge adult playground, though the guards and chains preventing climbing and exploring foiled my playtime plan...

Later, leaving the city, Waseem (my Tuc-Tuc driver) took me to the Amber Fort, which was where Jaipur was located until the city's population outgrew its water source.  Amber Fort was built in the late 1500s, and was a maze of passageways and halls, each unlabeled.  As I didn't take an audio tour nor accepted a guide--as I kind of prefer to wander blindly--I know relatively little about Amber Fort.  I basically got lost a bunch there, taking photos.  As I wandered through the labyrinth, I saw only four other foreigners.  One was a German who was absolutely Tomas Conkwright's doppelganger.  As we chatted, a family approached to ask if we would tak ea photo with their children.  We obliged.  Tomas 2 said to me, "People don't realize that Amber Fort isn't the real attraction--we are."  I feel this way at nearly every place I go.  Look!!  A tall white girl!  In the wild!

Moving along, I walked back down to meet Waseem, who was kind, comfortable, and just chatty enough.  We saw some elephants with their faces and trunks painted.  The elephant master (trainer?) grabbged my arm to pull me around to his side for a photo op (so don't worry--there's plenty of photo documentation...).  We moved along past the water palace, now closed, and on towards the monkey temple.  My 16-year-old guide (Ram) seemed more concerned with my single, childlless status than anyone else to date, which is saying a lot.  I bought peanuts for the monkeys and gave them and my camera to Ram..."For protection," he said.  "I will protect you from the monkeys," he assured me.  As we raced up the hill, past a slew of untimid monkeys, Ram and I chatted .  Ram handed me a few peanuts out at a time to be sure I wouldn't be swarmed.  I found the temple itself not very exciting, though it offered a beautiful view of Jaipur and the dark clouds rolling in.  On the race back down the rocky path, I fed more monkeys as Ram acted as photographer.  I was made so much more uncomfortable by the little monkeys than I had expected.  Their little hands seemed creepy and I found myself flinching at the thought of monkey teeth sinking into flesh.  I cannot stop thinking about that monkey that was treated as though it was part of the family (given booze and antidepressants like a good American) until the day it just snapped and ripped off the human mother's face.  I'm happy to say I came out unscathed--face and all! 

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