I moved from that closed restaurant to an open one for a late lunch. I had delicious vegetarian curry and a mango lassi for lunch. I sat reading "A Fine Balance"--a fantastic novel I actually read in Peace Corps but decided to re-read in India, as it is based here in the 1970s. It tells the story of intersecting lives, and sucked me in completely--even the second time. The waiter told me the restaurant was closing until dinner but invited me to a beautiful courtyard/garden area in the back where I sat and read until the rain started. I moved into a small covered room with a tin roof under a tree with four peacocks perched loudly. There I read as the thunderstorm rolled in, and while the storm raged around me. It let up briefly and I thought the storm would clearn. No such luck--another surge whipped leaves and branches into my little haven. Finally I went through the courtyard and back into the restaurant, which had lost electricity thanks to the storm. It was getting dark and I was eager to cross town for my hotel. I was 20 Rupees short for my bill at the restaurant and offered to go to the ATM and come back. They insisted tomorrow would be fine. I walked through town, the bottom of my long white skirt in hand. A man with a motorcycle offered to give me a ride. I told him I had no money, but he just smiled, and said, "No money, madam." I got on side-saddle, gripping his waist. We only made it a few blocks before he told me the water was too deep to continue on the motorcycle. I thanked him and dismounted, determined to walk through the water that was already halfway to my knee.
I didn't make it far. The street was disgusting, with the trash and animal feces floating to the top of the flooded street. As I trudged through, all I could think of was another time I felt determined to cross (what I imagined to be) difficult terrain. When I was about 10 years old, our horse cut his face all along his snout (?). I was sent to my great aunt's house for help, as there was no electricity. I trudged through what I'm sure looking back was just a few inches of snow with a flashlight, feeling that I must get to my aunt's house for help.
In this present day scenario, however, I ended up sitting with two young men in the doorway of a music shop until the one said he had to close. The other offered me a ride on his motorcycle, insisting I wait on the small ledge for him to come around. He roared through the water and into the elevated unflooded street. I had given up side saddle, and just tucked skirt as well as I could between us. He took me all the way to the door of my hotel and I shook his hand, thanking him repeatedly for his kindness. He just smiled. The hotel was dark when I returned and I finished my book by candlelight in my room, tears streaming down my face from thinking of the tragedy that met the book's characters. The electricity came back on, and I switched on the TV, deciding to watch Con-Air until I fell asleep.
I didn't make it far. The street was disgusting, with the trash and animal feces floating to the top of the flooded street. As I trudged through, all I could think of was another time I felt determined to cross (what I imagined to be) difficult terrain. When I was about 10 years old, our horse cut his face all along his snout (?). I was sent to my great aunt's house for help, as there was no electricity. I trudged through what I'm sure looking back was just a few inches of snow with a flashlight, feeling that I must get to my aunt's house for help.
In this present day scenario, however, I ended up sitting with two young men in the doorway of a music shop until the one said he had to close. The other offered me a ride on his motorcycle, insisting I wait on the small ledge for him to come around. He roared through the water and into the elevated unflooded street. I had given up side saddle, and just tucked skirt as well as I could between us. He took me all the way to the door of my hotel and I shook his hand, thanking him repeatedly for his kindness. He just smiled. The hotel was dark when I returned and I finished my book by candlelight in my room, tears streaming down my face from thinking of the tragedy that met the book's characters. The electricity came back on, and I switched on the TV, deciding to watch Con-Air until I fell asleep.
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